Ireland-Part 2

Dublin is a city that is best experienced on foot, and as we exited the top of our double deck bus ride in the heart of the city, the energy from the street was palpable. Lots of people, bustling traffic and vibrant storefronts lent a sense of electricity despite the impending rain on the way. Amazingly, this would be our only storm for the trip, quite a feat considering the reputation that the British Isles endure for precipitation. We had alighted a few blocks from our principle destination, Trinity College, to view the Book of Kells.
Founded in 1592, Trinity is considered the finest college in Ireland, and ranks 43rd in the world, as well as being a major tourist attraction. Much of the interest lies in two entities: The Book of Kells and The Long Room. Composed between the 6th and 9th centuries in Scotland, Ireland and England, the book is actually a collection of 130 folios that have been bound into 4 volumes. These exquisitely illustrated texts represent the 4 gospels of the Bible in some of the finest examples of Western Calligraphy in existence. There are always two on display at any one time, one featuring the art, the other the text. It is breathtaking to view, and easily earns its distinction as the premier treasure in Ireland.
After ascending a short flight of stairs, we gained entrance to the aptly named long room, an ancient and intriguing library. If the Book of Kells is a testament to the artistry and faith of its creators, the Long Room is a testament to the secular worship of learning: it is a cathedral of the book. This main chamber of the Old Library is 65 meters (210 feet) long and stretches two stories high and further to a beautifully timbered, barrel-vaulted ceiling. Some 200,000 of the oldest books in the library's collections are held in oak bookcases and shelving, running the length of the room in a series of alcoves on either side, not unlike the side chapels of a baroque church. Contrasting with the dark wood and bindings of the books are white marble busts that punctuate the alcoves, celebrating great writers and philosophers. Amazingly, the room is not climate controlled, and the damp Dublin air flows freely throughout, assuredly taking its toll on the fragile tomes. We take in the atmosphere in hushed reverence and study the additional display of Napoleonic paraphernalia that is enjoying a temporary exhibit stature.
A well stocked gift shop is always a treat, but especially so when there is a raging rain storm is guarding the exit from the building. We laze about, picking up a few trinkets and in short time make a break for it to Grafton Street.
Gratfon Street runs a number of blocks from Trinity College to St. Stephens Green, and what a stretch it is. Store after store, too many restaurants to count, buskers, mimes and lots of people walking freely down the mostly pedistrianized brick road. Side streets spill with the same energy and there is general sense of electricity in the air. There is very little in the way of American fast food and thankfully no big box stores to ruin the feel, although there is a four story eclectic mall where we stop for a few umbrellas for a couple of our—ahem—less prepared members of the group (here is a tip; don’t buy an umbrella from the street stores, stick to the mall).
It’s just a few blocks over to Kildare street right across the green and the next stop at the famous Cleo, a tiny shop that specializes in natural fiber knitwear at premium prices. Liz had gotten Patti a gift certificate and this was her chance to redeem it in person (a scarf). Respendid with white stone walls, a fluffy cat and low ceilings, the clothing on display is stunning and lush and I can almost fancy myself in a wool cardigan that would completely smash the budget—something to shoot for the next trip!
As I said Dublin is for walking, and we set out on our way to St. Patrick’s Cathedral. Churches do not come any bigger than this - at least not in Ireland. Saint Patrick's Cathedral is the largest church in Ireland. It also is the only Irish cathedral without a bishop and was designated as the "National Cathedral of Ireland" by the Church of Ireland ... to prevent any Catholic attempts at a takeover. Apart from the imposing building itself, major attractions are historic tombs and several statues. Many visitors come specifically to see the graves of Jonathan Swift (which we missed). After leaving the grounds, we make our way past Christ Church Cathedral, which we did not stop in but admired the gothic architecture. This was the first stone building in Dublin, erected by the conqueror "Strongbow" for his close associate, Archbishop Laurence O'Toole. O'Toole, now a saint, is still in residence - his mummified heart can be seen in St. Laud's Chapel.
If you haven’t guessed by now, our wanderings are not without an ultimate purpose, and our sites are now set to reach the Guinness Storehouse, and its famous tour and museum. Along the way we pass the Brazen Head, Ireland’s oldest pub, and while it is a little early for drinking, I stop in to use the facilities, which appear to have been last cleaned for the opening party. Nonetheless, the relief is welcome and I am happy to pee a little on history whenever possible.
Soon enough we find ourselves at the fabled gate known to beer lovers everywhere and queue up for the self guided tour. Alas, it is rather pedestrian, although the plant itself is a clever mix of old and new in design and architecture, and the tour gradually takes you up seven floors where you are rewarded with a pint of the famous stout in a panoramic rooftop bar that features 360 degrees of windows. Oh, and for you purists, the beer is served ice cold. Of course we stop in the store and walk a few blocks when we finally decide to call it a day and hail a cab. Back at the hotel we settle for a somewhat disappointing dinner but no matter, we are dead tired and sleep is immediate and deep. Clearly Dublin is not a one day town and I hope to return someday to delve deeper into the marvelous history and beautiful aspects of this charming city. But tomorrow we are on the road early for a date in County Cork with …the Blarney Stone.

Ireland Part 1

When I reflect on our trip to Ireland, I cannot help but admire the fact as we drove across the Island; 6 people and serious luggage packed into a midnight blue van, that we not only did not get lost even once, nor did we crash and burn. Oh, there were some close calls to be sure—a traffic circle in Birr, a very sharp curve on a country road (sorry Shell!) and of course the ridiculously narrow roads with shear walls of bushes that conceal, well, shear walls of stone. Picturesque and deadly all at once, the Emerald Isle is. And I might as well say at this point that while I did all of the driving, it would have been impossible without Andrew manning the GPS in his inimitably calm demur—no one navigates like him—and everyone else biting there tongues while we careened into the shank of our itinerary.
Patti, Shelly, Mark and I arrived at Dublin port via the ferry across the Irish Sea from Holyhead, Wales.
The four of us had elected to arrive in London and take the train to the coast, while Liz and Andrew flew direct to Dublin, where they were to secure our van rental for the week.

As enjoyable as the crossing was,(after some last minute drama over our reservations) with our comfortable first class seating in the private

upstairs club (excellent food included!), our anticipation evenly matched by some fairly ambitious choppiness in the sea, a quick deflation set in as we established cell communication with Liz only to find that our van was not in her keep. Remember that the horror stories you hear about car rentals in Ireland are true; Liz had prepaid and was guaranteed an automatic transmission van for six upon landing at the airport….and it was not to be. No vehicle, no explanation, no nothing. Crestfallen, she and Andrew had made it by taxi to the Finnstown Hotel, our first stay of the trip. We did the same, and, our party complete, settled in to what seemed to be a disaster for the future of our trek.

Now, in my life I have learned a few incontrovertible truths: you don’t tease the alligators in the swamps of Florida, you avoid the under lit side streets in Paris after dark and you never, ever cross Shelly.

After a discussion with the charming clerk at the Finnstown about our plight, she advised that we were being “nice” and that the rental company was taking advantage of us—we should call them and be firmer in our request that they uphold their end of the contract. And that was that; Shelly and Liz (who is tenacious enough in her own right) teamed up on the phone; advantage yanks. The morning brought a clear day, moderate weather and a blue 6 passenger automatic van delivered by a less than affable driver (“There… Ya happy now?”). Early morning victories on foreign soil taste the best.

Back to the Finnstown Country House Hotel…the town of Lucan just outside County Dublin is the home of this 18th century masterpiece of a hotel. 45 acres consist of rolling fields, lush forests and impeccably kept grounds with horses in the pasture and peacocks roaming freely. The mansion may be ancient, but the accommodations are first class and comfortable; modern as any hotel I have been in, yet retaining an indescribable charm. When we settled in we gathered in the Peacock Restaurant for an exceptional dinner; our first together on the Island. Retiring to the rooms came early, and sleep was immediate.
Tuesday morning brought our first exercise in loading and unloading the van, something that we would become quite proficient at before the end of the trip. Part of our plans included staying in a different interesting hotel every night, and on this point we scored handsomely as we headed off across Dublin to the Radisson St. Helen’s. As a side note, they drive on the left over there, so the steering wheel is on the right hand side of the car. Obviously this is somewhat unnerving at first, and I swung the car around the parking lot at Finnstown’s a few times to get the feel. It was certainly my intention to display confidence to our group, but as I drove down the long entrance from the hotel and prepared to spill out on to the road, a sense of dread encapsulated me and I feared the worst; that my driving would not be up to task and that I would surely get us all killed. Happily--for whatever reason--I felt quite comfortable and managed to adapt to the traffic infrastructure rather easily, if I do say so (although traffic circles are vexing; more on that later).
So this was the start of our first full day in Dublin, and the itinerary was packed.


The Radisson proved to be another stunner with spectacular grounds and cozy rooms all set in a enormous stone mansion.

Plus, I only managed to miss the turn in to the lot twice! Built in 1750, the black and white marbled floored lobby exudes history with beautiful crafted furniture, exquisite details in the wall and ceiling details…and terrific staff. Check in completed, we walked across the grounds to Stillorgan Road to await the bus to downtown. Next…Trinity College, Guinness and much more!