Ireland-Part 2

Dublin is a city that is best experienced on foot, and as we exited the top of our double deck bus ride in the heart of the city, the energy from the street was palpable. Lots of people, bustling traffic and vibrant storefronts lent a sense of electricity despite the impending rain on the way. Amazingly, this would be our only storm for the trip, quite a feat considering the reputation that the British Isles endure for precipitation. We had alighted a few blocks from our principle destination, Trinity College, to view the Book of Kells.
Founded in 1592, Trinity is considered the finest college in Ireland, and ranks 43rd in the world, as well as being a major tourist attraction. Much of the interest lies in two entities: The Book of Kells and The Long Room. Composed between the 6th and 9th centuries in Scotland, Ireland and England, the book is actually a collection of 130 folios that have been bound into 4 volumes. These exquisitely illustrated texts represent the 4 gospels of the Bible in some of the finest examples of Western Calligraphy in existence. There are always two on display at any one time, one featuring the art, the other the text. It is breathtaking to view, and easily earns its distinction as the premier treasure in Ireland.
After ascending a short flight of stairs, we gained entrance to the aptly named long room, an ancient and intriguing library. If the Book of Kells is a testament to the artistry and faith of its creators, the Long Room is a testament to the secular worship of learning: it is a cathedral of the book. This main chamber of the Old Library is 65 meters (210 feet) long and stretches two stories high and further to a beautifully timbered, barrel-vaulted ceiling. Some 200,000 of the oldest books in the library's collections are held in oak bookcases and shelving, running the length of the room in a series of alcoves on either side, not unlike the side chapels of a baroque church. Contrasting with the dark wood and bindings of the books are white marble busts that punctuate the alcoves, celebrating great writers and philosophers. Amazingly, the room is not climate controlled, and the damp Dublin air flows freely throughout, assuredly taking its toll on the fragile tomes. We take in the atmosphere in hushed reverence and study the additional display of Napoleonic paraphernalia that is enjoying a temporary exhibit stature.
A well stocked gift shop is always a treat, but especially so when there is a raging rain storm is guarding the exit from the building. We laze about, picking up a few trinkets and in short time make a break for it to Grafton Street.
Gratfon Street runs a number of blocks from Trinity College to St. Stephens Green, and what a stretch it is. Store after store, too many restaurants to count, buskers, mimes and lots of people walking freely down the mostly pedistrianized brick road. Side streets spill with the same energy and there is general sense of electricity in the air. There is very little in the way of American fast food and thankfully no big box stores to ruin the feel, although there is a four story eclectic mall where we stop for a few umbrellas for a couple of our—ahem—less prepared members of the group (here is a tip; don’t buy an umbrella from the street stores, stick to the mall).
It’s just a few blocks over to Kildare street right across the green and the next stop at the famous Cleo, a tiny shop that specializes in natural fiber knitwear at premium prices. Liz had gotten Patti a gift certificate and this was her chance to redeem it in person (a scarf). Respendid with white stone walls, a fluffy cat and low ceilings, the clothing on display is stunning and lush and I can almost fancy myself in a wool cardigan that would completely smash the budget—something to shoot for the next trip!
As I said Dublin is for walking, and we set out on our way to St. Patrick’s Cathedral. Churches do not come any bigger than this - at least not in Ireland. Saint Patrick's Cathedral is the largest church in Ireland. It also is the only Irish cathedral without a bishop and was designated as the "National Cathedral of Ireland" by the Church of Ireland ... to prevent any Catholic attempts at a takeover. Apart from the imposing building itself, major attractions are historic tombs and several statues. Many visitors come specifically to see the graves of Jonathan Swift (which we missed). After leaving the grounds, we make our way past Christ Church Cathedral, which we did not stop in but admired the gothic architecture. This was the first stone building in Dublin, erected by the conqueror "Strongbow" for his close associate, Archbishop Laurence O'Toole. O'Toole, now a saint, is still in residence - his mummified heart can be seen in St. Laud's Chapel.
If you haven’t guessed by now, our wanderings are not without an ultimate purpose, and our sites are now set to reach the Guinness Storehouse, and its famous tour and museum. Along the way we pass the Brazen Head, Ireland’s oldest pub, and while it is a little early for drinking, I stop in to use the facilities, which appear to have been last cleaned for the opening party. Nonetheless, the relief is welcome and I am happy to pee a little on history whenever possible.
Soon enough we find ourselves at the fabled gate known to beer lovers everywhere and queue up for the self guided tour. Alas, it is rather pedestrian, although the plant itself is a clever mix of old and new in design and architecture, and the tour gradually takes you up seven floors where you are rewarded with a pint of the famous stout in a panoramic rooftop bar that features 360 degrees of windows. Oh, and for you purists, the beer is served ice cold. Of course we stop in the store and walk a few blocks when we finally decide to call it a day and hail a cab. Back at the hotel we settle for a somewhat disappointing dinner but no matter, we are dead tired and sleep is immediate and deep. Clearly Dublin is not a one day town and I hope to return someday to delve deeper into the marvelous history and beautiful aspects of this charming city. But tomorrow we are on the road early for a date in County Cork with …the Blarney Stone.